A Note on Durian

In Southeast Asia there is no middle ground. You either hate or love the large, spiked, ball-like fruits.

The flesh of the durian has a very distinctive odor - and nobody can agree on whether it's good or bad. Some people seem to regard the durian as having a pleasant fruity fragrance akin to pineapple. Others, however, find the durian's aroma revolting and describe it's smell closer to that of rotten garbage.

I'd like to admit that personally I find the durian somewhere in between - its has strong notes of a tropical fruit mixed with the smell of raw sewage. I'm not sure what exactly to think of the smell.

Good or bad, the persistence of the durian's smell has led to the fruit's banishment from nearly all the hotels and public transportation in Singapore and Malaysia. There are signs everywhere, constantly reminding patrons of establishments that durians are not allowed on the premise. All around bus stations, airports, and businesses are various reminders that you can be fined for possessing the fruit in areas where it's banned.

But people still love the stuff. In fact, Singapore even has a building shaped like a durian.

So what's with this love affair with such a stinky food? Today, I bought a durian from a local vendor to find out. He chopped it open for me, exposing the fruit's five silky-white cells. These cells are filled with a mass of firm, cream-coloured pulp, containing some seeds. I dipped my spoon into the pulp and hoped for the best.

The consistency and flavor of the durian are pretty singular: that is, they're difficult to describe. But if I had to describe it, I'd say a rich and buttery almond pudding might reflect the taste. It's much more complex than that. There are occasional bursts that call to mind cream-cheese mixed with Chardonnay. The consistency of the fruit is something nothing else possesses. Durian neither acidic like many tropical fruits. It's also not sweet. It's, as I said, singular.

Durian is commonly sold on Asian markets around the United States. If you've never had one and feel adventurous, I suggest you pick one up. And don't worry - even though it might smell bad, when you eat it the fruit doesn't invoke any nausea. In fact, the more you eat of it the less you feel inclined to stop!